If you love hitting the trail and biking, now is the time to fine-tune your equipment and get it ready for a summer of fun! All this takes is some simple tweaking and cleaning, and you will be ready to hit the road in no time.
No doubt your bike has seen some weather over the winter months. This can be very wearing on your breaks, chain, and over paint job.
After all, it is just as important that have your equipment in shape as it is to have your body in shape! We all go through a little wear and tear over the cold months-spring is the time for fine-tuning.
Maybe your body will not be in perfect shape for it, but if you follow these tips, at least your bike will be. Now is a great time to check the wear on components, and adjust or replace them if necessary.
Let us start with your chain. If you have not replaced your chain in a year or more, do it now.
Over time, the individual parts of your chain get worn out, increasing its effective length, this is often referred to as chain "stretch." When this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the profile of the cog and chain ring teeth, so it wears those teeth out to fit the chains profile.
If you replace the chain before it stretches too much, you will save having to replace costly cogs and rings. To detect the stretch of your piece of metal, simply measure it.
Ideally, you would measure the chain over its entire length. Of course, this requires taking it off the bike.
You can also detect the stretch, although not as accurately, by measuring a short section, say twelve inches. Taking the measurement is easy.
Pins on a new chain are exactly half an inch apart. If you line up one pin with the one inch mark on a ruler, at the end of the ruler another pin should line up exactly with the twelve inch mark.
If the chain is stretched, the pin will not line up. If you detect an eighth inch or more stretch, it is time for a new chain. If the chain does not need replacement, at least give it a fresh coat of lubricant, to prevent rusting during winter storage.
Next, check the bearing surfaces. This includes your bottom bracket, hubs, and headset.
Each of these should turn smoothly with no discernable play in the system. Before you check your bottom bracket, be sure each crankarm is snugged down tight.
Then, hold onto one crankarm (don't hold on to the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If there's any clicking or, conversely, if the crankarm feels tight or binds, the bottom bracket needs adjustment.
Do the same thing with your hubs. With the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, feeling for any free play or binding.
Either of these indicates a need for adjustment. To check the headset, first put the newly adjusted wheels back on the machine.
Next, grab the front brake firmly, and pull and push the handlebars back and forth. You should not detect any play.
Also, if you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn smoothly. If it feels rough, or "indexes," meaning it always comes back to center, it needs adjustment or perhaps replacement.
While you are at it, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should not be frayed or rusty, and the housing should not be kinked or cracked.
If such wear is evident, replace the offending cables or housing, otherwise, your shifting and braking will be sluggish. Last, inspect your brake pads for wear.
Many pads have ridges or some sort of indicator mark to let you know when they have worn so far as to need replacement. Brake pads that are worn unevenly, or simply worn out, compromise both braking efficiency and safety.
As long as you have got your equipment dusted off and running so smooth, why not go for a ride? It is not that miserable outside!
Now get out there and ride. Once your things are in order, your body can begin to get in order as well!
Author Resource:-
Jack R. Landry has been writing about the exercise and health industry for years. He recommends using Nordictrack to stay healthy and fit.
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